COSTUME JOURNAL, the first of two issues planned for 2010, has been mailed to CSO members. Between these they receive a number of NEWS sheets, and an annual Membership Directory. (Between mailings members who have indicated they wish to be notified by e-mail are also alerted to events of possible interest.)
This Costume Journal is a bumper issue, with colour photos on front and back covers, groups of these on inside of covers, plus lots of fascinating black/white scans throughout its 36 pages. It would be enough to draw most costume enthusiasts to sign on to receive all these publications! But a visitor to this site cannot savour the Costume Journal, so our entry here can only try to convey the wealth of material carried by our main publication! If we succeed, you can call up a form on the membership page to receive this outstanding bonus of membership.
A major article is “A Lace Sojourn in Belgium: A Self-Guided Study Tour,” by Nancy Pye. The author, a lace maker and teacher, planned her own route to examine and study antique laces. She gives us a rare and satisfying discussion of a highly complex subject, following various lace- making techniques as they developed, from the 1500s on, in the Flanders and Brabant regions of modern Belgium. Luckily for us, they included both major divisions of handmade laces: bobbin and needlepoint. Fortunate for us too that the author presents in-depth descriptions, terminology, dates and places for the treasures in the collections she visited, while preserving exceptional clarity. (Lace is as complex a subject to discuss as are the airy designs of these marvels of textile art.) Shown here is just one of the many photos, this showing part of the process of needlepoint lace making, creating “punto in aria” or “stitches in air.”
That is just one article! There is an excellent review by Dale Peers of the Hand & Lock Seminar on embroidery open to CSO members, given at Seneca College on March 22nd, 2010. Photos, including two in colour, show embroidered samples on view at the lecture, and there is a colour shot of part of the Seneca College Fashion Resource Centre costume storage area, taken on a post-lecture tour.
There are also briefer reviews of: a symposium on American Style held at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), New York; an exhibition, “Night and Day,” of 70 pieces of daywear and eveningwear over 250 years, also at FIT; and a survey of bridal gown fashions at the Niagara Falls Wedding & Fashion Museum.
Besides these there is a very full review of “Clothing for the Warrior & the Courtier: Patterns of Sixteenth Century European Court Dress,” the Veronika Gervers Memorial Lecture given at the ROM February 17th. The reviewer manages to convey to us who could not be present the electric atmosphere created by Jennifer Tiramani, including images of textiles, 16th century costume and portraits, adding up to a riveting presentation. She showed the demanding procedure in going from a period garment through a pattern to create garments for actors that look and even fit in a period way.
Costume Journal runs features exploring the work of outstanding members of the CSO, in this case a most satisfying Profile of Tracy Gorman, who produces an amazing number of costumes for display, use in City of Toronto museums or for Heritage Services programs, working in a room at the top of historic Spadina House. Through text and photos the reader gets an excellent introduction to this talented “costume technician,” who can conjure up (with lots of research, skill and demanding handiwork) items from 1812 Red Coat uniforms for Fort York soldiers to a stunning copy of a 1926 Lanvin ensemble (slip dress, coat dress and hat), worn by a story-teller in 2009 and then put on display.
That is just a look at some highlights of Volume 40 of COSTUME JOURNAL. In November the Costume Society of Ontario will mark its 40th Anniversary. For some years after its founding in November 1970, members received a delightful, idiosyncratic publication created by costume collector Alan Suddon, who worked in the Fine Arts area of the main Toronto Reference Library. Alan read widely, extracted and typed up many memorable items for the CSO Newsletter, for 14 years, starting from early 1971. After Alan gave up his editorial post, the CSO Newsletter was produced by various dedicated Executive members, alone or in groups; this changed to Costume Journal partway through 1990. Costume Journal has kept the diverse flavour of articles, reviews of events or exhibitions; new book releases; listing of upcoming events members might find interesting including while traveling; listing of new resources, especially books and catalogues.
We have attempted to sketch the contents of this latest Costume Journal to give an idea of the fascinating and useful material that comes with a CSO membership. A further significant item is the annual Membership Directory (out early summer), listing members with their expertise and interests—a very solid and valuable link among those keen on the varied aspects of costume and textiles interest.
For references to earlier items go to Post Archives – Publications, and click on “earlier entries.”